Amalfi and Sorrento Coast Drive
A day trip with some interesting conclusion Dear gentle reader. Today I have taken a day off to yet again improve the quality of what I call my life time work ! It is always with great pleasure that I try to surprise my clients with new advices about restaurants and detailed, coloured descriptions about the area. Todays trip was thought again on the Amalfi Coast. It all started very promising with gorgeous wether being simply perfect for another adventure which was followed by my nearly wife Mrs.Camera Nikon 2DXs and Gabriella, a dutch friend with italian origins from Naples living right now in Agropoli in her parents holiday house. We head towards the Amalfi Coast, which should have taken us about 45 min, but we managed in only 40min. The drive itself was easy with no problems at all. It was surprising that the local athorities managed to get some police to stop the traffic in the dangerous serpentines to ease up the drivers and restore security on the street. Our way got over Salerno to Vietri sul Mare which is the fist village on the way to Amalfi from Salerno, famous for its porcellan manufactury. We enjoyed the views very much and at some stage we could see the big tankers crossing the sea at just a few miles from the Amalficoastline to access the commercial port in Salerno. Gabriella with her sharp dutch complaining eye told me instantly, that she wouldnt swim at all in this "muddy water". It all remembered her of the Netherlands where industry simply contaminates every environment and that she was glad her parents live back in Agropoli, where swimming, sunbathing and walking is no problem at all. Well, what to say, at this point: I had to take a look myself and it was definetely true: the water was muddy. Very close to the commercial port of Salerno, I thought, it should be normal.... ??? (At the end of the page you will find the full size images) We continued the road into Maiori then Minori for Amalfi. Whilst driving we could see the houses on the seafront and center of Maiori with it´s very narrow on winding streets. Only a few houses made up in huge block of apartments on 7 floors on the seafront enjoy charming sunset views, all other balcony seemed to be well hidden and it appeared impossible to see anything else then the house infront. Neither Maiori, nor Minori proved to be charming this time a year. Very tiny beaches being very, very dirty with black disgusting sand and rubbish just lying everywhere hit my eyes instantly. The street went on and we finally found parking in Amalfi. It was absolutely no stressy drive over the coast and while taking a picture here and there it was quite relaxing to find parking straight away in Amalfi. The municipal car-park attendant politely adviced me in italian to buy a parking ticket and expose it behind the windscreen of my car. I replied in english but his answer was just a shrugging .. I turned again in Italian and said: "grazie - thank you". Well, I went over to the machine but, unfortunately had no change and the machine wouldnt pay back, so, I was forced to get some change.... But where ??? It was absolutely incredible how rude shop owners and bar staff turned my polite question about changing 10 euro in coins relentlessly down. After 20 annoying min. I finally managed to get some change and feed the machine ... ( many thanks to the nice english lady at this point). I got the ticket and exposed it behind the windscreen of my car. The Duomo in Amalfi is always a delight and standing in front of it or walking in it is absolutely worth all efforts. Afterwards, we sat down in a street caffe in the middle of the square and had some coffee and cake - What a delight. As for the houses, me and Gabriella found the same block of apartments as in Maiori and as for the water, in Amalfi we found it still very muddy. The tiny beaches were all really dirty and no way inviting to what I am used in Agropoli. Swimming was definetely out of question and so we decided to take the SS163, a road which brings from Amalfi over to Vico Equense or directly to Castellammare di Stabia. While driving on the SS163 I questioned Gabriella how packed this must be during high and mid season and how long it might takes to drive from point A to point B. Her sober dutch reply: " Fully packed ! I guess it must take ages " What I saw then exceeded my imagination. Once we left Amalfi we climbed the mountain over Pimonte and Gragnano. While being an experienced italian driver I can underline at this point that I have never felt worst in my whole life. It was impressive how the italians run down to Amalfi but more impressive how they drive up the windinding road. Formula 1 to its fullest and absoluely scary. So, whenever you take the opprotunity to drive along the coast, instead of taking the ridge of the mountain onto the SS163, take the coast road, it is much easier and way more relaxing. We finally reached Vico Equense which seafront terraces face north (same for Sorrento) and found the same very poor circumstances showing up again just like Amalfi. With one difference, it was amazing how many hotels we found. Walking in the streets on sidewalks is there impossible. Narrow sidewalks with space for a just married couple intensly embraced. But a family with kids ? Noway ! Car hire for Sorrento strongly recommended and it is no easy job to drive in Sorrento whatsoever. One street to Naples and a lot of cars. No beaches, just cliffs and Americans simply everywhere watching sitting on a tiny bench the sea. The water was dirty and rubbish simply lying everywhere. Agropoli´s seafront is a delight with no comparison to what is there ... Besides, that I am not used to see dirt in Agropoli and I have claimed the municipal rubbish collection service in Agropoli many times. In fact, it got really good now and the major here in Agropoli takes any rubbish problem very serious. While being really stressed out and exhausted I went with Gabriella in a bar in Vico Equense on our return. I asked the bartender for the dirt reasons and he didnt reply at all - but he could hear from my italian that I was not local but from further south... The Bartender asked me where I come from and I simply replied Agropoli. While serving us he turned the question around and said, why do you think the whole area of the bay of Naples moves to Agropoli and Santa Maria Castellabate during holiday ? Me shrugging about it, he replied: "We have no space to welcome all this people nor do we have the necessary clean water with all the industry in and around Naples. All locals from Hercolaneum down to Castellammare allocate to spend their vacation in your gorgeous places, just because it´s neither safe to bath here nor it´s nice at all to lie about on the narrow beaches packed like sardines in a tin." I had suspected it all .. To get it frank this way, was literally a slap in my face. I need to do more to bring the discernig tourists to Agropoli ! Conclusion: I have no idea where all the crowds of tourists go to swim or enjoy themself on tiny beaches on and about the Amalfi or Sorrento Coast, nor do I understand where or why italian property owners can take pictures who sell "crap" as 5 star holiday properties. But I suspect it to be a real mess and disappointing for holiday makers. I can just advice the gentle reader that every single word on and about this website is true. As for Agropoli and surroundings: Agropoli is for all real connoiseurs of the region the perfect spot to discover all the Campania area. Family walks on the seafront, walks on the port, watching the fisherman, watching a perfect sunset over Agropoli with idyllic sceneries. Nothing is too strenuous from and about Agropoli, neither too far away no matter if further north or further south. Sandy beaches like Trentova Bay or sandy beaches in Santa Maria Castellabate are large, welcoming and the water clean. However, paying a visit to the Amalfi and Sorrento Coast is a must and shouldn´t be missing on a list with boxes to tick off and spend ONE day. Sorrento, Amalfi, Massa Lubrense, Positano ? Again, a must ! But, only with enough coins to feed the parking machines and the car filled up ! For me and Gabriella: Our one day trip was enough. We could see again all necessary places and we both got home really exhausted. It was all bits too tiny, bits too stressy, bits too messy and way too expensive. ( I paid 25 Euro for 2 pieces of cake, 2 coffee and one soft drink - in Agropoli this is the price per person for a 2 course menue in a very good Restaurant including some wine or beer ) Our decision: next time we take the Hydrofoil which runs in season from Agropoli and use busses and trains. Well, what to say more, Agropoli and its surroundings are nestling in an unspolit area the italians have definetely kept for too long kept to themselves. Its beauties, enchanting beaches, street caffes, bars and restaurants are really worth to be discovered and represent the dip into the true italian life. Hope to see you soon in charming and welcoming Agropoli. Yours
Raffaele Abate |
